Florence of Arabia

    The only thing worse than going uphill on a camel is going downhill, or at least it is if you don’t count the getting on and off, or the camel standing up to begin your trek, which pales into nothing the first time the animal drops on its front knees for you to
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Mulling over mules

  I sit on a stone in the shade of a walnut tree opposite the mule ‘car park’ in Imlil, watching a young farrier hammer 3-inch nails though a mule’s hoof, nipping the excess nail off before bending the stub over. The mule gives the occasional enquiring look
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The Buddha returns to the High Atlas

  For six weeks during the winter of 1996, the Kasbah du Toubkal was clad with stonework, prayer wheels, wooden doors and Tibetan domes to transform it temporarily into the Monastery of Dungkar, for the filming of Martin Scorsese’s epic, Kundun, the story of the Dalai Lama’s
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Rush Hour in the High Atlas Mountains

    I hear someone shout, ‘Hello’, but when I look around I can’t see anyone. They call again, and following the sound of the voice I see a young man perched on the branch of a walnut tree above my head, camouflaged by the dappled sun and shadow of the leaves. When the
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